DIY Fashion is Coming!

Academy of Art University Fashion Week just ended. But it was amazing while it was here. We got to hear from Lidewij Edelkoort of trend union. She is a leading trend forecaster. So we all got the inside scoop for the trends for fall 2012-2013! I can’t wait to see the trends hit the streets. But for now I will have to sit and reminisce of the presentation and order a copy of her magazine, Bloom. She also puts out a trend book every 6 months, an interior book yearly, and others.

One of the trends she mentioned trends was Do it Yourself. She spoke about how it will have bright colors, be recycled, trashy, local, inspired by art, one of a kind, hand made, and lots of threads and yarns. We have seen the rise of handmade websites such as Etsy. Also there are website and bloggers showing tutorials and steps on how to make pieces. I’m excited to see this hit the mainstream. It should be fun and scary to watch all at the same time. 

By - Ashley

Sources:

http://yellena.com/newgallery/drawings/gallery_biome.html

http://thebolditalic.com/blog_posts/946-lights-camera-fashion

http://www.fashionschooldaily.com/index.php/2011/04/30/meet-graduation-fashion-show-designers-brittany-and-wendy/

http://www.zimbio.com/Fashion/articles/00AsoVGZeyt/Academy+Art+Fashion+Graduates+Draw+Notable

http://www.refinery29.com/academy-of-art-fashion-show-preview/slideshow?page=54#slide-1

http://www.fashioni.st/

Keep a Lookout For These Designers

The Academy of Art University’s graduation fashion show was fabulous! As this was the first full AAU fashion show, I felt so lucky to be in the crowed, to feel the energy, to hear the whistles and applause, and most importantly to see the clothes up close. You can truly see the talent, creativity, and skills in each garment. What is amazing is that all of the work put on the runway is done by the students. 

I must say how I loved, loved, loved Brittany Birgraff’s, BFA fashion design, and Wendy Tam’s, BFA textile design, collection. The crowed also went wild when the first dress hit the runway. The colors were black, white, teal, and pink. It was very fun and hip. There were layers and layers of printed see through fabric. Their inspiration was actually from dark children’s stories and art by Yellena James. There is one thing that I am upset about... That I will never own one of these dresses! But, I will definitely stay on the look out for these designers in the future.

Art by Yellana James

I just can’t get over the fabric in Drew Williams’s collection. She used silicone, plastic, egyptian cotton, rayon, and bamboo. Her inspiration was Rudi Gernreich, medical attire, and evolution and change. The colors were purple, coral, and tan. The garments had a sleek look and had a unique movement from the materials used. The pictures do not do them justice. I wish I would have gotten it on video! But, never the less take a look at them here. 

By - Ashley

Sources:

http://yellena.com/newgallery/drawings/gallery_biome.html

http://thebolditalic.com/blog_posts/946-lights-camera-fashion

http://www.fashionschooldaily.com/index.php/2011/04/30/meet-graduation-fashion-show-designers-brittany-and-wendy/

http://www.zimbio.com/Fashion/articles/00AsoVGZeyt/Academy+Art+Fashion+Graduates+Draw+Notable

http://www.refinery29.com/academy-of-art-fashion-show-preview/slideshow?page=54#slide-1

http://www.fashioni.st/

Embroidery As We Didn't Know It

Last Thursday we got to hear Laure du Pavillion talk about embroidery and the luxury of it all. To be honest I haven’t gave much thought to hand embroidery. But learning there is countless tedious hours going into each piece intrigued me. She mentioned that there isn’t many master hand embroidery companies because of the intense skill set that is needed. So, designers go to the same companies and don’t have staff embroiderers. 

Givency

Givenchy

Chanel

Amabille

This got me thinking... When the whole do it yourself trend hits the mainstream I if hand embroidery will be on board as well. Some people now are doing it themselves such as making clothes, but it is an even smaller market. The possibilities are endless. People now seem to embodier anything they can. I do hope if it does take off that the bad embroidered garments will be kept indoors. 

By - Ashley




Sources:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-DIY-Handmade-Embroidered-Slip-Top-Shirt-/190246678748

http://blog.craftzine.com/archive/2009/06/hand_embroidered_note.html

http://www.etsy.com/listing/58652280/free-shipping-embroidered-v-sheath-in?ref=sr_gallery_15&ga_ref=auto&ga_search_query=hand+embroidered&ga_noautofacet=1&ga_search_type=handmade&ga_facet=handmade%2Fclothing%2Fwomen

http://www.etsy.com/listing/69165887/custom-made-lovely-hand-embroidered?ref=sr_gallery_28&ga_search_query=hand+embroidered&ga_noautofacet=1&ga_page=3&ga_search_type=handmade&ga_facet=handmade%2Fclothing%2Fwomen

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2010CTR-GIVENCHY

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2010CTR-CHANEL

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/F2010CTR-AMABILLE

Trend Union Symposium Hosted by Academy of Art University

Written by Shumpei Okamoto

Why does fashion industry need trend forecasts? What if the classic button-down t-shirt that you are wearing was bought by a buyer who choose the clothes based on the trend forecast company. Well, maybe we don't "need" it but we want it to enrich our life. Welcomed by Academy of Art University, Lidewij Edelkoort, one of the most influencial trend forecasters, presenting in Trend Union, talked about FW 12/13 trend in terms of "Retailing" and "Textile".
One of the most interesting facts during the event was that she never talked about only fashion but connect with other industries such as architecture, interior and untimately the situation that people are facing right now. I thought it is really essential for trend forecaster to see everything surrounding us because trend is not only coming from runway but from real world. Therefore, it is perhaps reasonable result that they forecasted the "Sanctury" the place to worship the calmness and "Scarves" which softly protect ourselves as the trend because the world are still unstable and people are still looking for the light which shines on their path. Also another retailing trend "Eco" and "Vagabond" came from same reason that economical difficulty of the world set this off. If you are still not sure about the importance of trend forecaster, watch what people will be wearing in Winter 12 and remember those trend forecasts.

Here are trend forecasts by Trend Union

Retailing

• Sanctuary
• Spiritual Experience
• Eco
• Re-luxury
• Streaming
• Monomind
• General Store
• Vagabond
• Scarves
• Bloom
• Theatre
• Moving Image
• Noir
• Bordello

Textiles in Lifestyles 2013

• Hut
• Chalet
• Atelier
• Bubble
• Sanctuary
• Shack
• Nest
• Bungalow
• Club
• Caravan
• Folly

The Ever Changing Life of Media

Last Wednesday we also had the pleasure of seeing, fashion journalist, Cathy Horyn, and fashion designer, Nathalie Rykiel. Something that caught my attention was how Ms. Horyn said blogging has made everyone a critic. It is the do it yourself public evaluations in a way. The structure and way of life is always evolving. Blogging has just became mainstream a few years ago and she said how before that they were looked down upon at events. Ms. Horyn also talked about how she used to have a blog about anything and now it has a specific focus to get the news out. She said she isn't much of a tweeter. Thinking about that as well. If I said that statement to someone four years ago they would not understand what I was talking about. So, what will a few years from now look like? Will there be printed papers and books anymore? All I can say is that I’m looking forward to the future of fashion; and I had learned and enjoyed the Academy Of Art University Fashion Week. 

By - Ashley

Academy of Art Graduation Fashion Show, A Gateway to the Success

 

Written by Shumpei Okamoto
On Thursday, May5th, I attended the graduation Fashion Show of Academy of Art University. This show is the gateway to success for the 15selected students from fashion department because each year the school invite some of the worldwide famous people in fashion as guests of honor and the designers offer internship opportunity at their brand for a few students that they chose. For this year, the New York Time Critics, Cathy Horyn, creative director of Sonie Rykiel, Nathalie Rykiel, and designer Yigal Azrouel, Andrew Bucker, Steaven Cox and Daniel Silver for Duckie Brown and Laure du Pavillon.

Collection was really well organized and professional. Professional models were walking on the runway covered by well-made, ready-to-sell garments. I would say it was not student quality anymore. In terms of Design, I did not feel so much color in the overall collection but instead I saw a lot of Neutral and Earthy color. The Designers seemed more concentrated on the silhouette and shape. Some of my favorite garments were Peter Nguyen’s collection. He was inspired by tailored men’s wear. I would say it was the most trendy clothes at the collection due to its purity of design and clean precise cut. Another favorite look of mine is Jannika Lilja’s black dress with chiffon under the layers of deconstructed knits. The decadent mood of her design surely attracted me and reminded me one of the Antwerp 6, Ann Demeulemeester. As a design major student at Academy of Art, I hope I will be able to show up on that runway as a designer.

Revival of Mastery Craftsmanship

Written by Shumpei Okamoto

On Thursday, May 5^th, hosted by Academy of Art University, Laure du Pavillon, former PR director of Christian Lacroix. Before this event, I have never heard of her name, but once I know she is the lady who had been controlling the brand image and organizing the collection of Christian Lacroix for 22 years, I was ashamed the fact that I did not know her. During the symposium, she started off with the hot topic about wedding gown of Kate Middleton. When she mentioned the interesting story that French Ateliers did not know that Kate Middleton would wear their lace until the day of the wedding, the hall was filled with relaxed “French” atmosphere.
Following the story of craftsmanship of the atelier, she lectured us the history of haute couture which started by Charles Frederick Worth and later Paul Poiret, Paco Robanne, Jean Patou and so on. When she compared Haute Couture with recent fashion,which weights more on advertising and also only heads forward too fast, I felt the sympathy of her idea. I agree that fashion should move forward but at the same time I think fashion is about both the history and the engagement to the present time. Without reference to the history, We would never see the designers such as Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela and Hussein Chalayan. Then she moved on to the next topic, which was different kind of craftsmanship such as feather maker, milliners, shoe maker, glove maker and embroiderer (House of Lesage) at last. Embroidery is the marriage between the fabric and the embellishments, but it is never extravagant but luxury. Among the all of the embroiderers, Francois Lesage has been on the top of the industry. Over 60s years of training since the age of 20, he has mastered to blend precise craftsmanship with the needs of innovative brand such as Givenchy, YSL, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix. Sadly, in the industry, which almost has been swallowed by fast fashion, there are few people who invest their money to the real craftsmanship. A lot of houses are now facing serious economical issue and also problem of lack of successors. Fortunately, Chanel bought the house of Lesage in 2002 to save it from extinction and the history of embroidery. Now they also hold a school, Ecole Lesage, which teaches the art of embroidery. Tradition will never stay in the history but marry itself with the present time.

Real Fashion People in “the land hat forgot style”

Written by Shumpei Okamoto

On Wednesday, May 4^th, invited by the executive director of the Academy of Art University, Gladys Perint Palmer two of the most influential ladies in the fashion: Cathy Horyn, the fashion critics for the New York Times, and Nathalie Rykiel, daughter and the creative director of Sonia Rykiel, visited San Francisco “the land that forgot style” according to Guy Treabay who is the colleague of Ms. Horyn. Because of her sharp insight and passionate critic of the fashion, Cathy Horyn has gained a unique distinction and been referred as a “true quote” and/or the “matter of fact”. As opposed t the re-informers and bloggers who just use the information from other articles and blogs, her articles have always been flesh and full of original content which has been entertaining a lot of people, except some designers. Her writings are sometimes too honest and harsh to delight the designers as some of her article in New York Time said that Alexander Wang is “not a great designer” and Tommy Hilfiger’s collection is “boring and ugly”. Sitting across from Ms. Cathy, Nathalie Rykiel looked very calm and shy lady; however, I can’t deny that her words, which came from Ms.Rykiel were full of passion to the fashion. In the discussion, she strongly mentioned “You have to be unique and original and yourself. ” no matter what students are studying. How can designers be original and distinguish themselves from others? “You have to love fashion.” she said as if designers are about to live and die for it because design comes from the essence of designers own life.

Celebrity Fragrance

No matter how bad the economy is, celebrity brands or the companies that use the celebrity to gain profit drive the industry. Celebrity helps to promote the products to the consumer because of their instantly recognizable image which gives consumer strong direct impact. Once customer sees familiar face on the package, they can’t think carefully bad just grab it. In addition, using the celebrity who is constantlyfile:///Users/student/Desktop/5184536538_217a96ab33.jpg shown in the public, the products can also be modern and edgy or classic and timeless, depending on the public image of the celebrity. However, there is downside of using the celebrity. The negative image of the public figure can directly impact the sales of the products. Who wants to wear the fragrance whose maker is racist or having the bankruptcy? The last and the biggest negative side of the celebrity brand is it cheapens the image of the fragrance since they rather focus on the marketing than the quality and are targeted at a young buyer. For those reasons, the public became invisible to separate between the celebrity brand and the scents gift in its own. I personally think that everybody should have at least one fragrance created buy professional perfumers that would fits to whatever mood, style and age.           


     


Sources


http://desvestirmedia.com/1345/fotos-Foto-0-original-de-rihanna-fragrance-laazd3031/
http://www.popcrunch.com/shakira-perfume/
http://www.colinusher.co.uk/2008/04/usher-fragrance-what.html

Modern Culture and Fragrance

Regardless the situation of the market and flat wages, women never give up the beauty. That is why the beauty industry is one of the few businesses that couldn’t come at a worse time. However, this unbreakable idea of beauty industry has been broken. Typically the big companies, the sale has declined about 1 percent for a decade. One of the biggest reasons for this is that younger customers tend to invest more money on cellphone, iPod and other electronics. This fact indicates that customers are waiting to see how beneficial the product is and how long it is going to last. Another reason is the rising price of oil. Gasoline is the primary target, which would be influenced by the price of oil, but cosmetics as well since most of the products include the oil.

During the recession, fragrance industry is typically getting worse. Unlike the other beauty products such as lipsticks and eyeliner, fragrance does not give the visible result to the customer. In other words, it is not essential thing that people need to have to look beautiful. In the weak economy, fragrance is an option but not a necessity. 

Invisible Hero of Fashion

The Bill Cunningham's column "On the street" in New York Times has influenced many fashionistas all over world, including me. When I play "On the street" audio slideshows on the New York Times website with Bill's narration, I am transported to the streets of New York. As a photographer, he has dedicated his life to capture the real world of fashion, which exists on the street. His incomparable instinct to capture the trends that are coming from real people who wear the real clothes on the street. He has always gives the sense of reality to the fashion. "We all get dressed for Bill," the Queen of Fashion, Anna Wintor remarks how important role he has played in the fashion. Also she mentions her feeling of personal failure when he did not raise his camera towards her. He is the criterion of beauty. Now, he finally gives his voice and shows his appearance in the documentary film by Richard Press, Bill Cunningham New York.

Bill Cunningham is an outsider who hates to be in the spotlights, but he is the spotlight, which brightens the people. In contrast to the extravagant world of fashion, he stays his life as simple as possible. "I don't have time,” he repeats many times in the film as if he is not interested in anything other than photographing the beautiful people on the street. He lives in a tiny studio with 5-story cabinets all around the room. He eats $3.50 lunch, which includes a cup of coffee. He always wears $15 blue shirts. "It is too rich for me", he said when he found that Michael Kors was wearing Cashier coat.

I believe that being modest is the only way to evoke the keen artistic sense. In other words, always being satisfied loses the sharpness of the sense. Some designers have fallen into the trap richness and only seen the extravagantly decorated world of fashion. Unfortunately, they ended up loosing their sharp instinct to capture what people needs at the "present" time and fail their businesses like Yohji Yamamoto and Christian Lacroix. If those designers could ever remember the modesty that they used to have and the Bill's words, "Money is cheap, Freedom is expensive", maybe they would still design as a trendsetter.

It is very difficult to keep from trap of richness and to be modest, especially in New York but not for Bill. This is the significant reason of his achievement as one of the most important person in the fashion world. For those who have already watched the film, it is clear that he has something, which obsessively drives him to keep working although he will never disclose what it is. However, I honestly don't care at all because I will keep turning the page of New York Times every week and transport.  

Sources

http://guestofaguest.com/nyc-society/hurray-for-bill-cunningham-hurray-hurray-hurray/

http://www.wwd.com/eyescoop/qa-bill-cunningham-1762700/

http://www.newdirectors.org/2010/bill-cunningham-new-york-2/

The Photography Life

The way Bill lives his life is truly inspiring. Bill loves what he does so much that he doesn’t need a reward of expensive luxuries. He refuses to get paid by the companies so they don’t own his him, his work, or change his vision. 

When looking at another successful fashion photographer such as David LaChepelle, we can see a huge difference in their lives not jut their work. 

David LaChapelle

Bill Cunningham

Bill lives in a studio without a bathroom or a kitchen! David lives in a $1.65 million dollar home. 

Bill's Apartment

Bill's Bed

David's Home

David's Bed

When getting to and from events Bill rides his bike, wears his blue smock, and is still talking a bunch of photos all night. David goes in style, in a nice car, and doesn’t really take photographs.

Bill at an event with a friend

David at an event with his boyfriend

Bill arriving at an event

David arriving at an event

Many of Bill’s friends wonder about his private life. Can you work all the time and still be fulfilled in life? He doesn’t see it as work but more as a hobby. Bill has never in his life had a romantic relationship. It really didn’t seem to phase him on the outside. He is too busy with his work and probably doesn’t have time to sit and think for it to bother him. He hasn’t even seen his own movie! But, if you don’t know what you are missing, how can you miss it? The same is true with his housing. No one knows how he was raised. Was he wealthy and that is why he is so comfortable around celebrities? Was he poor and that is why he is able to live with lower standards? Some aspects of Bill life are still a mystery but we all would love to watch and get dressed for Bill.



Sources

http://www.kpbs.org/news/2011/apr/08/homage-street-fashion-photog-bill-cunningham/

http://www.spreadartculture.com/2011/03/22/cunningham-on-the-prowl/

http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/10/07/a-grand-fellow/

http://indefinitetransit.com/2010/10/22/art-event-mary-mcdonald-interiors-the-allure-of-style-book-party/

http://www.luxist.com/2009/04/24/david-lachapelle-lists-l-a-house-for-1-65-million/

http://www.lachapellestudio.com/portraits/elizabeth-taylor/?ci=54

http://www.lachapellestudio.com/editorial/italian-vogue_5/?ci=8

http://s334506675.onlinehome.us/?m=201003

http://www.nytimes.com/2007/02/18/fashion/shows/18street.html?_r=1